CO2 Royal Cream

Unrefined Mango Butter*=27.05%

Unrefined Shea Butter=27.05%

Unrefined Coconut Oil*=13.43%

Unrefined Cocoa Butter*=13.43%

Sweet Almond Oil=2.69%

Apricot Kernel Oil=2.69%

Avocado Oil=2.69%

Olive Oil*=2.69%

Jojoba Oil=2.69%

Tonka Bean Butter*=1%

White Beeswax*=1%

Vitamin E=1%

 

Essential Oil Concentration=2.59%

CO2 Chamomile=.85% (Germany)

CO2 Rosemary* (Morocco or Greece)=0.41%

CO2 Raspberry Seed* (Chile or Poland)=0.31%

CO2 Frankincense (India)=0.26%

Spike Lavender (Spain)*=0.21%

CO2 Myrrh* (Somalia)=0.10%

Helichrysum* (Croatia or Bosnia)=0.10%

Manuka Flower**(New Zealand)=0.10%

Ylang Ylang* (Madagascar)=0.10%

Geranium* (Egypt)=0.10%

Seville Lavender* (Italy)=0.05%

 

*Organic

**Wild

Unrefined Mango Butter*=Oslove Organics

Unrefined Shea Butter=Fair Tale Ghana

Unrefined Coconut Oil*=Nutiva

Unrefined Cocoa Butter*=Mountian Rose Herbs

Sweet Almond Oil=Essential Depot

Apricot Kernel Oil=Essential Depot

Avocado Oil=Kevala

Olive Oil*=Bragg

Jojoba Oil=Cocojojo

Tonka Bean Butter*=Eden Botanicals

White Beeswax*=Ancient Health Remedies

Vitamin E=Mountain Rose Herbs

Essential Oil Concentration=2.59%

CO2 Chamomile (Germany)=Eden Botanicals

CO2 Rosemary* (Morocco or Greece)=Eden Botanicals

CO2 Raspberry Seed* (Chile or Poland)=Eden Botanicals

CO2 Frankincense (India)=Eden Botanicals

Spike Lavender (Spain)*=Eden Botanicals

CO2 Myrrh* (Somalia)=Eden Botanicals

Helichrysum* (Croatia or Bosnia)=Eden Botanicals

Manuka Flower**(New Zealand)=Eden Botanicals

Ylang Ylang* (Madagascar)=Mountian Rose Herbs

Geranium* (Egypt)=Eden Botanicals

Seville Lavender* (Italy)=Eden Botanicals

 

*Organic

**Wild

Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future

Antioxidant and anticancer properties of chamomile 

Chamomile vs migraines 

Chamomile vs atopic dermatitis 

Chamomile vs Generalized Anxiety Disorder

Chamomile vs wounds

Chamomile vs post-cesarean bowel activity

Chamomile vs Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

Chamomile: Apigenen

Plainspeak:  Essential oils are usually made by pounding the plant material with heat and steam, but in the process, heat and oxygen destroy sensitive compounds that are good for your skin.  Instead, oils can be extracted using carbon dioxide (CO2, this is what you exhale when you breathe out), which preserves more of the helpful compounds in the plant.  CO2 is completely organic, non-toxic, odorless, produces no toxic waste, and is easily removed from the extracted oil.

Getting Deeper: CO2 extracts demonstrate more stability, longer shelf life, and are more versatile than their steam distilled counterparts. Some of these compounds are lost during the traditional steam extraction process because they are unstable and sensitive to heat/and or oxygenation (for example with Chamomile: chamazulene and bisabolol).

Officially buried in jargon: Using supercritical CO2 as an organic solvent is a technologically superior alternative to steam distillation, especially regarding the efficacy of Chamomile, as it preserves both highly volatile compounds and less volatile and sensitive oxygenated sesquiterpenes.  The loss of monoterpene alcohols or the hydrolysis of monoterpene esters is greatly minimized.  These factors contribute to the retention of compounds that increase the therapeutic benefits of skincare formulations.  

Bridging the gap:

To explain how CO2 oils are different, we have to look at 'regular' essential oils.  'Essential oils' are a mixture of natural, volatile, and aromatic compounds extracted from plant material.   Which beg's the question?  Are they actually oils?  Well, no, and yes.  Scientifically speaking, 'oil' is catch-all term for anything that is liquid and not highly soluble in water, and under this general definition of oil, many essential oils have purely covalent components (aren't fully soluble in water) so one could argue that chemically, essential oils are indeed oils.  But this would be a silly argument, because chemically speaking, this very broad definition of oil includes classes of chemical compounds that may be otherwise unrelated in structure, properties, and uses.."  So with an eye on chemistry, it's irrelevant ask if something is an oil, but we can ask if they are lipids.  A lipid is

"any of a group of organic compounds including the fats, oils, waxes, sterols, and triglycerides lipids are characterized by being insoluble in water, and account for most of the fat present in the human body they are, however, soluble in nonpolar organic solvents..."

So with this in mind, we can say essential oils are most often not lipids.  They're often mostly terpenes.   There's also amines, phenols, alcohols, ethers, esters, aldehydes, ketones, and a whole host of other compounds.

Many of these compounds are sensitive to oxygen and heat and CO2 extraction is superior for plant material containing these compounds.

CO2 extraction is done at ambient temperature in a completely enclosed oxygen-free environment.  The CO2 is compressed until it becomes 'supercritical' (neither a gas nor a liquid) and this puts incredible pressure on the plant matter, separating it into various compounds, and when the pressure is removed-the CO2 turns back into a gas, quickly and completely dissipating.  Depending on how much pressure is applied, 'select' or 'total' extracts will result. 

The chamomile I use is a 'total extract,' made using higher pressure, and has a higher molecular weight and contains more of the lipophilic constituents of the plant.    Let's examine one of our key chemical  compounds in chamomile, chamazulene.  We can  see CO2 extraction contained almost triple the amount of chamazulene (14.9%) as the  steam extraction (5.41%)

 

LANCER The Method: Nourish 1.7oz - 125$

I LOVE their packaging, and their item description taught me the word decollete.   Unlike the spotlights on the lavender butter page, I like their key ingredients 

Key Ingredients:

• Antioxidants: repel signs of premature aging and free radicals
• Oat, Chamomile and Licorice Extracts: soothe and calm sensitivity while reducing redness and inflammation
• Plant-based Oils from Olives and Avocados: improve your skin's barrier function
• Nasturtium Flower Extract: helps minimize the effects of environmental damage
• Sodium Hyaluronate: replenishes hydration, plumping the look of lines and wrinkles for a smoother, visibly renewed complexion

This is all fine,  but clicking on the ingredient list unmasks this product as just another water/glycerin mixture,  laden with a bevy of synthetic ingredients.

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Dimethicone, Squalane, Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Tropaeolum Majus Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Bisabolol, Phytosterols, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Isostearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Carbomer, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Disodium EDTA, Aminomethyl Propanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Limonene.

 

SISLEY-PARIS Moisturizer with Cucumber 1.7oz - 188$

To me, this copy on this product page was a breath of fresh air. 

 Here's all they put:

"The Moisturizer with Cucumber is a daily-use hydrating product with a silky, non-greasy texture. This refreshing moisturizer will instantly leave your skin feeling more comfortable. Its key ingredient, Cucumber, is rich in amino acids and mineral salts and revitalizes the skin.

Results:
With each application, the skin is left hydrated, fresh, and comfortable. Revitalized, the skin is soft, supple, and visibly radiant.

Key Ingredients:

• Cucumber: hydrates and revitalizes

Usage Tips:
Each morning and/or evening, apply the Moisturizer with Cucumber to clean and dry skin, on the face and neck, using a gentle massaging motion."

 

Simple, no long descriptions, no outlandish claims, no faux science.   One key ingredient, cucumber.  Nice, I like that.  But when it comes to ingredients, maintaining the water/glycerin formula is just too profitable to pass up

Ingredients

AQUA/WATER/EAU, GLYCERIN, ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, GLYCERYL MYRISTATE, HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, AVENA SATIVA (OAT) KERNEL EXTRACT, CUCUMIS SATIVUS (CUCUMBER) FRUIT EXTRACT, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CARBOMER, DISODIUM EDTA, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, SORBIC ACID, SODIUM BENZOATE, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, BENZYL SALICYLATE, BENZYL BENZOATE, CITRONELLOL, LINALOOL, AMYL CINNAMAL, CINNAMYL ALCOHOL, EUGENOL, COUMARIN, LIMONENE, ISOEUGENOL, HYDROXYCITRONELLAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL. IL#4A

Without getting into the weeds on the pile of garbage that is this ingredient list, I just want to touch on the key ingredient, the cucumber extract.  I can't stress this enough... when they list "cucumber extract" as an ingredient, they are likely referring to cucumbers being soaked in a petrochemical solvent such as hexane but there's no way of knowing.    If you try and source some for yourself, you won't see any from reputable distributors like Eden Botanicals or Mountian Rose Herbs, and for good reason, because it's "not a thing."  Best case scenario, we might assume they are using an alcohol-extracted hydrosol, which is problematic for several reasons, one of which being that only trace amounts of cucumber would make it into the final formulation.  However, it's infinitely more likely that they are using something that contains even less cucumber (like this).  Worst case scenario, they can make their own extract without using any cucumber at all (it would look something like this) and then list it as an ingredient.  All in all, it's just upsetting because I liked how simple their product description was.  We only have one key ingredient.  Cucumber.   Sigh

 

Lancome Absolue Revitalizing & Brightening Rich Cream 2oz- 222$

 I love the metal container, and I give them bonus points for giving the consumer the option to buy refills instead of buying a new container each time.  Pro-Xylane™ sounds like bullshit skincare industry faux technology, but it actually checks out, it's basically a sugar molecule derived from beechwood that stimulates the production of proteoglycans (a water-absorbing molecule).    This product also contains real rose oils, which are amazing, and expensive.  The same can be said for Meadowfoam seed oil.  But these ingredients are way down the list, in unknown concentrations amidst a suspect cast of characters.   Guess the first 2 ingredients for bonus points

AQUA / WATER, GLYCERIN, HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, OCTYLDODECANOL, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, SQUALANE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, CETYL ALCOHOL, ZEA MAYS GERM OIL / CORN GERM OIL, COCOS NUCIFERA OIL / COCONUT OIL, PEG-100 STEARATE, DIMETHICONE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, CERA ALBA / BEESWAX, MYRISTYL MYRISTATE, CI 14700 / RED 4, CI 19140 / YELLOW 5, ALCOHOL, TOCOPHEROL, HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN, HYDROLYZED LINSEED EXTRACT, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM BENZOATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, ADENOSINE, PEG-14M, CHLORPHENESIN, POLYSORBATE 80, LIMONENE, XANTHAN GUM, PANTHENOL, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, LINALOOL, PROPANEDIOL, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, ISOHEXADECANE, CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID, SORBITAN TRISTEARATE, ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER, CARBOMER, SORBITAN OLEATE, GERANIOL, ROSE EXTRACT, DISODIUM EDTA, ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER OIL, ROSA CENTIFOLIA FLOWER EXTRACT, TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE, CITRONELLOL, COUMARIN, PARFUM / FRAGRANCE

 

So it's full of garbage, I just have a couple of notes.

SODIUM HYDROXIDE - This is Lye....highly caustic, but I'm assuming it's in a very low concentration.  However, most of the beneficial ingredients are below this on the list.

HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN - Why?

PARFUM / FRAGRANCE - This is one of the most common "ingredients" you'll see in skincare products.  Companies don't have to disclose to consumers what is in their 'fragrance' or how it's made, because it's considered a proprietary secret.  I

Melting/Shipping to hot areas:  This lotion melts at about 80 degrees, so shipping to hot areas can be problematic.  In such instances, the lotion will be chilled and insulated and should go unmelted, provided it doesn't have to sit for hours in a hot mailbox.   If it does melt, it's still perfectly fine to use, you'll just be sad because the jar will look half empty and you'll have lost the fluffy texture.  

Skin conditions:  I can't claim to treat Eczema, Psoriasis, Rosacea, Shingles, Hives, Sunburn, or Dermatitis, without registering as a pharmaceutical. That is in my future plans, but for now, I'll choose my words carefully and just say that people with these conditions often use a moisturizer for symptoms, and that all three of my lotions were MADE FOR those people.  My son has extremely sensitive skin and a host of other skin problems.  My anecdotal evidence is that this worked for him, and when people with other conditions came to me crying with happiness about how much the lotions helped, I realized I needed to offer them to the world.     I hope to usher in natural treatments as potential competitors to pharmaceutical options and spar with those companies on a grand scale, but that goal is millions of sales away.

Daily sun protection:  I plan on eventually getting the expensive SPF testing done, but the ingredients in this formulation are obviously  occlusive and it has an approximate SPF of between 10-15

Allergy test:  Always allergy test skincare products before you use them!  Rub a little bit on your inner bicep, and wait for 30 minutes.  It shouldn't hurt, turn red or break out.

Acne-Prone Areas:  If you have acne-prone areas that are already having trouble with excess oil production, it's a good idea to avoid putting occlusive ingredients like cocoa butter on those spots.  My best friend has had incredible results against acne using Fibonacci's Flower followed by The Golden Custard.  Those products weren't made to treat acne, so this came as somewhat of a surprise to me, but it makes sense given the properties of geranium and helichrysum.   I also have a Non-Comedogenic prototype for sale, and foresee more specialized products targeting ance in my future.

Product by weight:  The available sizes (2, 4, 8 oz) are the amount by volume.  The lotion is whipped, so the amount by weight is about 25 grams for the 2 oz, 50 for the 4 oz, and 100 for the 8 oz.  One-half of a gram can cover your face and neck.  Unless your face is huge.  Then it'll take more.