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Immortal Sorbet

Immortal Sorbet

Plainspeak: Anti-aging.  More helichrysum and tonka bean butter than any product in the world.  Please, someone, show me a product with more, scour the globe.  


Flowery Overindulgence:  Utopia is simply a place where we all bathe in Immortal Sorbet twice daily.  Tonka bean butter is incredible for your skin, and shouldn't just be relegated to appearing in the most expensive perfumes on the planet.  Helichrysum is an amazing ingredient with unique properties that has been shunned in skincare formulations due to its high price (driven by low yield [between 20-30 pounds of flowers produce merely one ounce of oil]).     Put the oil from the flower that doesn't even age when it dies, on your face. 


Scientific Advantage: 


Helichrysum concentration: The composite flowers of Helichrysums have a very unique property, they remain unchanged when the plant is dried because they are surrounded by desiccated, colored, membranous sepals.   Hence the name Immortelle, or Everlasting.  Helichrysum oil posts a stunning ORAC score of 1700 and contains significant amounts of a number of unusual beta-diketones (some completely unique to helichrysum) which may explain it's unique anti-aging properties.   It combats inflammation in 3 ways: inflammatory enzyme inhibition, free radical scavenging activity and corticoid-like effects.  Some of the other findings: anti-atherosclerotic activity, antifungal and antimicrobial activity, and anti-HIV activity.   Kurt Schnaubelt wrote 22 years ago "Helichrysum is more predictable in its action than almost any other's effects are so convincing that it has never met with any kind of criticism..." and although much from that 1999 book is outdated, it appears increasingly likely that statement remains true indefinitely.  About one pound of helichrysum flowers go into each 2 ounce portion of Immortal Sorbet.


Officially buried in jargon:


"Helichrysum italicum acetophenones, flavonoids and phloroglucinols demonstrated inhibitory action in different pathways of arachidonic acid metabolism and other pro-inflammatory mediators. Regarding Helichrysum italicum in vivo activity, the highlight goes to the anti-erythematous and photoprotective activities of its flavonoids, demonstrated both in animals and humans, and to the anti-inflammatory properties exhibited by its flavonoids, acetophenones and phloroglucinols, as seen in animal models. "


Tonka Bean Concentration-  Tonka Bean Butter isUnfortunately, the current price (4/28/22) for ethically sourced Tonka Bean butter is 370$ a pound.  Fortunately, the "Recommended proportion is 1-3% of total content for a body or facial leave-on product."  So we don't need that much.  In this way, Tonka Bean Butter is more like other essential oils than other butters, in that it needs to be diluted

  • FORMULATION-Lets share our secrets to level up

    Unrefined Mango Butter*=66.12%

    Unrefined Coconut Oil*=13.22%

    Sweet Almond Oil*=5.29%

    Apricot Kernel Oil*=5.29%

    Jojoba Oil*=2.64%

    Tonka Bean Butter*=3.07%

    Vitamin E=0.93%

    Essential Oil Concentration=3.44%

    Helichrysum* (Croatia or Bosnia)=1.86%

    CO2 Frankincense (India)=0.26%

    Manuka Flower**(New Zealand)=0.26%

    Ylang Ylang* (Madagascar)=0.26%

    CO2 Rosemary* (Morocco or Greece)=0.26%

    CO2 Raspberry Seed* (Chile or Poland)=0.26%

    Spike Lavender* (Spain)=0.13%

    Lavender* (Bulgaria)=0.13%




  • SOURCING - Where'd you get that?

    Unrefined Mango Butter*=Oslove Organics

    Unrefined Coconut Oil*=Nutiva

    Sweet Almond Oil*=Mountian Rose Herbs

    Apricot Kernel Oil*=Mountian Rose Herbs

    Jojoba Oil*=Mountian Rose Herbs

    Tonka Bean Butter*=Eden Botanicals

    Vitamin E=Mountian Rose Herbs

    Essential Oil Concentration=3.44%

    Helichrysum* (Croatia or Bosnia)=Eden Botanicals

    CO2 Frankincense (India)=Eden Botanicals

    Manuka Flower**(New Zealand)=Eden Botanicals

    Ylang Ylang* (Madagascar)=Mountian Rose Herbs

    CO2 Rosemary* (Morocco or Greece)=Eden Botanicals

    CO2 Raspberry Seed* (Chile or Poland)=Eden Botanicals

    Spike Lavender* (Spain)=Eden Botanicals

    Lavender* (Bulgaria)=Eden Botanicals





    Biological activity of helichrysum 

    Helichrysum aromatic studies 


    More links above in the product description.


    Melting/Shipping to hot areas:  This lotion melts at about 80 degrees, so shipping to hot areas can be problematic.  In such instances, the lotion will be chilled and insulated and should go unmelted, provided it doesn't have to sit for hours in a hot mailbox.   If it does melt, it's still perfectly fine to use, you'll just be sad because the jar will look half empty and you'll have lost the fluffy texture.  

    Skin conditions:  I can't claim to treat Eczema, Psoriasis, Rosacea, Shingles, Hives, Sunburn, or Dermatitis, without registering as a pharmaceutical. That is in my future plans, but for now, I'll choose my words carefully and just say that people with these conditions often use a moisturizer for symptoms, and that all three of my lotions were MADE FOR those people.  My son has extremely sensitive skin and a host of other skin problems.  My anecdotal evidence is that this worked for him, and when people with other conditions came to me crying with happiness about how much the lotions helped, I realized I needed to offer them to the world.     I hope to usher in natural treatments as potential competitors to pharmaceutical options and spar with those companies on a grand scale, but that goal is millions of sales away.

    Daily sun protection:  I plan on eventually getting the expensive SPF testing done, but the ingredients in this formulation are obviously  occlusive and it has an approximate SPF of between 10-15

    Allergy test:  Always allergy test skincare products before you use them!  Rub a little bit on your inner bicep, and wait for 30 minutes.  It shouldn't hurt, turn red or break out.

    Acne-Prone Areas:  If you have acne-prone areas that are already having trouble with excess oil production, it's a good idea to avoid putting occlusive ingredients like cocoa butter on those spots.  My best friend has had incredible results against acne using Fibonacci's Flower followed by The Golden Custard (this product).  Those products weren't made to treat acne, so this came as somewhat of a surprise to me, but it makes sense given the properties of geranium and helichrysum.   I also have a Non-Comedogenic prototype for sale, and foresee more specialized products targeting ance in my future.

    Product by weight:  The available sizes (2, 4, 8 oz) are the amount by volume.  The lotion is whipped, so the amount by weight is about 25 grams for the 2 oz, 50 for the 4 oz, and 100 for the 8 oz.  One-half of a gram can cover your face and neck.  Unless your face is huge.  Then it'll take more.

  • LORE

    The peculiar odor of helichrysum was first mentioned in the 1st century by Pliny the elder in his book named Naturalis Historie.

    Leonardo Santini, the father of modern study, examined Helichrysum. Santini was a doctor and gave decoction of helichrysum to a few of his patients, who were suffering from bronchitis and asthmatic allergy (with cough).

    He found improvement in their respiratory conditions and noticed that their arthritis and psoriasis problems healed considerably. He started practicing more with helichrysum and discovered its syrup in 1903 and reported it in 1953 in an Italian journal.

    He also reported an insulin sensitivity activity in the animal experiment. He mentioned that helichrysum had a similar function as cortisol.

    Traditional Mediterranean medicine use helichrysum oil for centuries. Also Helichrysums are well known and popular as traditional South Africa medicine

    According to myth, the Greek god Apollo is at the entrance to Delphi wore a tiara of special flower, which is to remind the world of his immortality.

    Another legends from the near past says that Napoleon when returning by ship to Corsica could smell his island even before sighting it.


    Dr. Barbara Sturm Rich Face Cream 1.7 oz - $230

    "Dr. Barbara Sturm’s FACE CREAM RICH is a richer version of FACE CREAM."


    "Suitable as day or night cream"

    Day or night....right, right.  That's both, that's good.

     "highly active compounds get to work both superficially and deep inside your skin's cells" 

    They don't explain what this means, but I warn caution against any lotions that claim "skin will be visibly firmer."  

    I like most of their listed ingredients, including purslane, also called duckweed or hogweed.  But it's absolutely damning that I can't find a full ingredient list anywhere.   They advertise as "Molecular Cosmetics"....molecular.....riiiiiight.  On an unrelated side note, I can't help but feel like if you put the word Doctor on something, it just seems more official.  On the bright side, if you buy this you will get "DEDICATED STURM CARE 24/7"


    Natura Bissé Diamond Cocoon Ultra Rich Cream 1.7oz-$325

    This is another scary product with big claims,  and no full ingredient list anywhere.  I'm going to critique this product solely through quoting the product page.


    • Helps skin look plumper, firmer and softer.

    Moisturizers shouldn't be making your skin more plump or more firm, these are red flag descriptives that are common in the industry.  I'd go as far as to say that the use of these words is enough to dismiss a product entirely.  On a more interesting note, they are claiming this formulation makes your skin look firmer AND softer.  Firmer....AND softer.

    "AquaMagnet, is an exclusive ingredient of botanical origin to provide deep hydration that lasts for 72 hours."

    There is NO ATTEMPT anywhere on to explain what this means.  Search results have no idea, it's more known as a three step method to repair cracked heels.  72 hours seems unnaturally long...


    "Actibiome Complex is a prebiotic ingredient that provides nutrients for your skin microbiota, to help balance your complexion and make your skin look vibrant."

    Blatant lies.    Skin flora is an incredibly complex, emerging science that we know very little about.   There are over 1000 species of bacteria from 19 phyla, and studying them individually has proven a very difficult task, here's a great look at why.  Science does not know enough about skin flora for this claim to hold any validity, and I'd strongly advise against anyone using products attempting to outreach the science on this one.

    "OxySkin and OxySkin-HEV are cutting-edge ingredients that provide superior antioxidant action, revealing a revitalized and radiant complexion."

    Again, no explanation.  You would think with such a technological slant, you would be compelled to give some information about what you are talking about.

    "Polyporus officinalis is a fungus extract that makes pores look less visible. It is also ideal for fine-tuning the texture of skin."

    Using fungus to make your pores "look less visible" falls somewhere between potentially problematic and stupid.  I could go on and on about this product, every single thing they say on the product page is unsubstantiated. 


    La Prairie Cellular Radiance Night Cream 1.7 oz - $730

    At this price point, it's just astounding how little information is given about this product.   I was able to pull this from their Neiman Marcus page

    "Restore what time has taken away.

    • Moisture-binding and ceramide complexes replenish hydration.
    • Night blooming flowers help soothe, nourish, and hydrate.
    • Oat Kernel extract stimulates skin's defense system.


    • Advanced peptides maintain the skin's structural support to increase firmness.
    • Rejuvenating plant complex helps restore youthful texture, and minimizes lines and wrinkles"

    Advanced peptides? Rejuvenating plant complex? Moisture-binding?   And ceramide complexes?  Ceramide is naturally occurring in skin, I have no idea how you would harvest such an ingredient.  Probably similar to hyaluronic acid, which is naturally occurring in the skin and is harvested from rooster combs or created in a laboratory by bacteria.  

    I do love the silver and gold container though. 


    Developing Immortal Sorbet led me through a litany of different formulations, variations, and names allwhile chasing a simple something: Tonka Bean + Helichrysum.  The first ideas, of trying to make some type of "ultimate" high-end face lotion, were somewhat off track.  Adding extra things wasn't going to be the key.  In order to really showcase the Helichrysum, I had to actually use less and streamline the recipe.  I wanted to make sure this one didn't have any shea butter, because a small percentage of people actually get clogged pores from shea butter

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